Niigata-Italian cuisine

Niigata-Italian Cuisine [jp. 新潟・イタリア料理] is a Regional Japanese cuisine that derives from the culinary creations of Niigata-ken and had originated with recipes from the Itariaken Hotel and is a subtype of Niigata Cuisine. Many of the ingredients are local, recipes started historical, and the cooking techniques have varied by restaurant. Niigata Italian Cuisine represents a unique mixture of Japanese and Italian culinary tradition that has evolved in the late 19th century with a style that is served by Italian restaurants in Japan. The style of of Niigata Itarian cuisine stands distinctly different from “Authentic Italian cuisine” that is highly regarded and has differences as well as influences from various Italian culinary styles to create a landscape of dishes that reinterprets and even combines dishes to express a cooking style that has developed with the people of Niigata. A significant number of dishes were said to have been introduced from the French Equestian Circus “The Soulier” came to Niigata Port where the Italian Cook Pietro Migliore aka Miora remained in Niigata after suffering a severe injury. 

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Niigata Italian cooking leans in on- tomatoes, eggplants, and fuwa eggs (buttered fluffy eggs), and oven-baked forno (it. oven) that is from regional farmers. The farmers would find large shipments of tomatoes and eggplants so a variety of ingredients would be used by establishments like Norakucina 新潟鐙店 “Nora Cucina” in Niigata City. These would be: Niigata farmed eggs, Momotaro Tomatoes, Sicilian Rouge, Juzen Eggplant, Yaki Eggplant, and Maru Eggplant. 

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Etymology: The term "Niigata Italian Cuisine" was found as the dangers of losing foods that had been made in the area that were really delicious would impact the areas identity. There was a fear that the dishes could be forgotten and seen as some sort of historical lore. So as interest grew in the food restaurants serving Italian cuisine of the regions unique dishes or restaurants serving a authentic italian meal there would be a growth in using terms referring to region and the sort of cooking style. This would fall within the scope of Authentic Italian Cuisine, Niigata Italian Cuisine that would grow to include itameshi (Japanese-Italian Cuisine).

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Traditional Cuisine: Dishes that use Niigata ingredients have been used in "Niigata-Italian Kaiseki" that have been introduced from establishments like Marco Polo Restaurante have made a sort of dish set that is made of many sides and is popular during "Osechi" (New Years Cuisine). The main course tends to be a seafood like a Fish, Shrimps, Crabs, Lobster, or Squid. Covered in a charred or in a sauce like aioli or cheese that is top-charred. The rice dish is sometimes steamed in a dashi broth, and various pickled dishes are added, as well as cured-dishes, sashimi, and sides of charcuterie. 

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Climate: Niigata Italian Cuisine was the first to serve a variety of Meat Sauces and capture the interest of its take on umami throughout the Meiji, Taisho, and much of the Showa era. The popularity of dishes that had sauces, soups, and noodles as well as rice was said to be the heating processes it had in the cold weather as well as spiciness that could be added for even more heat a different kind of a heat that one could taste. These sorts of dishes were served closer to the ports as it was brought from overseas and grew in interest among the working class and even the entertainers in the entertainment district especially the Geigi. It would later on be a welcome addition that chefs would begin using stone-ovens with fires inside that would provide a heat source along with options of pizza that would help bring interest in more flour cuisine (konamon).

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History: Meiji Period (1880), French Circus Troupe "The Sueri Horse Troupe" came to Niigata Ports and Miola was left behind and cared for by Gonsuke and Osui, but the story reached Masataka Kusumoto who was moved and provide funds for the first Italian opened restaurant that featured beef hotpot. Miola had contributed a new food culture in Niigata and had people who were really into the history refer to it as Niigata Yoshoku cuisine and separate a subgroup called Niigata Italian cuisine for the reasons to further discussion about the distinct Niigata style. Customers who had come to Italia ken would go to places like Marco Polo where they would remember the ingredients, flavors, and tastes of the past, and cherished the historical background of the dishes.

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In 1944, Italiaken changed its name to Nihonkai Nippo, it is theorized that it could be from the events of the time when “The Allies” of the Kingdom of Italy surrendered and declared war on Germany to end the remnants of Mussolini that would put them at odds with Japans alliance with Germany. Japanese Italian Food Nationally would start changing In 1895 when the Restaurant Toyoken in Tokyo is said to have been the first to serve pasta imported from Italy. 20th century, the book Shokudoraku (The pleasures of eating) introduced dishes like western cuisine macaroni and cheese and later become known as a Japanese-Italian cuisine dish more specifically. After World War 2 many western foods disappeared, until Italian Prisoners of War reintroduced Italian cuisine in Hyogo Prefecture: Kobe Antonias, Kobe Donnaloia, and Takarazuka Amore Abela. In the 1950s, Tokyo restaurants Sicilia and Nicola’s as well as many others would come to serve American pizza and American spaghetti that became mainstream Japanese Italian food and later in the 1960’s European pizza and pasta would find its own food following.

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Modern: Niigata Shoku no Jin that runs the Niigata Italian Project connects producers and chefs for the appeal of Niigata Italian cuisine with new food. It takes producer and chef ideas who create unique dishes and ingredients that started with Niigata Italian Igredients in 2015, then Enjoying Niigata Italian Food in 2018. It has to compete with franchises Vansan Italian Kitchen a strong foe from Tokyo prefecture targeting Family-style eating and from and Saizeriya of Saitama Prefecture for affordable dining. 

Explorations of Japanese-Italian cuisine with Light food house 灯りの食邸 Kokajioya (Chef Kumakura) brings to the table of the Iwamuro Onsen area: black olive and liver sauce with turban shell for a creative take on things. Rorna Pizza Napoletana that uses Shirako, Nanban Shrimp, Kabocha, Asparagus, and Le Lectier Pears with Prosciutto to see how the ingredients can diversify and contrast the style of Niigata Italian. Meanwhile, Karin-tei a Tsubame City restaurant, is making Mabo Dofu Pasta, Broccoli Pasta, Yuzu Koshobonara (Yuzu Pepper Chicken Thigh Fat Carbonara), Kakibonara (Oysters) for a more homely look into cooking. 

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Tsubame-sanjo is known for its Iron works with artisan made kitchenware that is as strong as they are elegant, is located near shirone that provides excellent produce (fruits, vegetables, mushrooms), and not too far from sado island for the wealth of seafood. It creates the perfect access to a sort of Niigata-Italian seafood selection while produce takes center stage which has refreshing dishes that may have a savory and sweetness to them due to the access to some of the best fruits Japan has to offer. The restaurant Tsubamesanjo Italian Bit led by Takeshi Akiyama is unwavering in its respect to the area and the surrounding areas around it and has had menu items that have changed people's ideas of Niigata Italian food with the use of products from the Metal works and locally sourced ingredients with few imports. It can be said that much of the modern movement in Niigata has reached new heights with Tsubamesanjo Cuisine that represents the talents of Yoshida Town.

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Today: The soul food of Niigata is Itaria Yakisoba (Mikazuke) and dumplings due to the influence of Nagaoka. As local sourced ingredients has become more important Niigata-Italian from Niigata City, Nagaoka, and Joetsu has been using rice varieties and wine or sake to elevate dishes and sauces. The dishes that are slowly gaining followings or have strong established ones are: Itaria Yakisobas, Tamago Reba Gohan (Shaved Fungus with Egg, Liver, Rice), Zarupastas (Cold Pasta with Tofu Espuma. Italia Bit), Itaria Gyunabes, Itaria Dons (Sale e Pepe), Niigata Ajillos, Doria Pizza (Itaria Kitchen Cantare), Niigata Risotto, Niigata Trippa (beef, tendon, braised tripe), and Gyuton Stew (beef cuts, beef tongue). The oils and sauces that have been notable are: Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Anchobi Oil (anchovy, garlic, black pepper, olive oil), Sekikahabu Sauce (stone fruit herb butter sauce: nectarine, peach, plum), Shungiku Sauce (chrysanthemum), Crab Tomato Cream Pasta Sauce (grilled flavor), Shirako Sauce Pasta Sauce, and Ume Grill Sauce (White Fish Fillet, Unagi, Whole Squid).

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Fire Pit Counter: Wood-grilled Italian Firepit (Ideal Inc) added a Firepit Bar that is a great place to get warm and has created a sort of environment that people remember from Niigata-Italian, comparing it to a sushi shop, but warmer.  The hot surrounding area has a preparation area to serve things that are warm or hot. While it is a special area at the Italian Firepit, those who experience it wonder to future of what sort of cooking could be done in the area to better the experience of the cook and the client.

Notable restaurants are: Mikazuki, Italian Bit, Osteria Porco Rosso, Ijirushi, Fagotto, Fiorita, Honai Gardens, Restaurant Balena, Pizzeria Alpina, Prosperità, 2nd Step JY, Paolino, Pittori, Restaurant Azalea, ライズカフェ , Hatago Isen, Caprino, George's Cafe Folks, BISESTILE, Pizzeria Trattoria Da Take, Pacco, Gambacorta, Smilepeace