Niigata Shoyu Ramen
Niigata Encyclopedia
Niigata Shoyu Ramen (jp. 新潟醤油ラーメン) is also known as Niigata Kasane Shoyu Ramen that got its name for being "layered" since kasane is to do so with two sorts of soup a shoyu: light-shoyu, rich-shoyu (double shoyu), ginger shoyu, backfat shoyu. These shoyu variations are combined with all sorts of other soups with the most popular being Tonkotsu Ramen soup and Rich Miso Ramen Soup. The reason the name is generalized to Kasane is the various shoyu ramen soups that Niigata is known for and having backfat as a option or a specialty of the shop. The history of the ports was light shoyu ramen and it wouldn't be until later that Shoyu Ramen would be available due to limitations of energy, so during the times of economic growth is when such a saltier, stronger tasting, and larger noodles would be brought to popularity. As many of the soups made before the shoyu soup would be made with dried sardines and other sorts of fatty fish for their own flavor, but as people who worked at the city center near Furumachi or near factories like Tsubame-sanjo area are the ones who preferred the saltier variation that was being made at Chinese Ramen Stands around 1930s. Many of the customers were laborers, craftsmen, and those in the service industry who needed something quick to eat on their busy day.
Shoyu Backfat, Xu Naoyuki popularized and invented Backfat Ramen. He came from China to Niigata and worked in Sendai, Fukushima, and Kitakata before going back to Niigata that he felt had a better economy. He would go to open "Fu Laitei Food Stall", then "Hangzhou Hotel" (1930), and then Fukuraitei (1940). This period is when there was weak-heat at food stalls and thin-noodles were simmered, but the restaurant was able to set up a fire-pit to get a strong-heat and expanded the range of dishes through local feedback of customers in the area. The restaurant would then craft Backfat Ramen where he at first used green onions and the thin noodles at first but the taste wasn't as desired of the customers. It was not strong in flavor as he envisioned and the noodles were underwhelming in the dish, which did not make a good balance... He would change the noodles to thick-noodles with onions instead and the soup became thicker and the noodles were chewier with the flavor becoming saltier. By 1963, Mass ramen deliveries were made to the metal factories (800 bowls-a-day) with a single factory having about 150 orders and the noodles become extra-thick at this time to ensure better noodles for ramen delivery.
Shoyu Chashu, as more Shoyu Ramen shops opened and began offering Light-Shoyu, Shoyu, and Backfat Shoyu Ramen with thin noodles, medium noodles, thick-noodles, and extra-thick noodles, the ramen landscape had changed. Prefectures and National chains would start coming into Niigata and take surveys and ask questions to customers where it was discovered larger Chashu or extra chashu would be desired in the area. For example Niigata had been competing with Nagaoka prefectures larger Chashu from invading Ramen shop "Aoshima Shokudo" 青島食堂. Ittoya Ramen in Niigata would take Chashu very seriously with the feedback of customers wanting meatier and thicker cuts (100g) to make options of: Single Chashu, Extra-Chashu Three-Slices, and a Tomahawk Pork Chashu special. Ittoya would also offer a Kasane Shoyu Ramen that had Pork Tonkotsu soup with a Savory Mackerel Shoyu soup that made people who visited associate tonkotsu as a side option addition to a Niigata-style Shoyu Ramen rather than a predominant tasting soup of the region with Backfat Ramen being seen as better to some.
The Media, has been waving "Kingdom of Ramen" with what's called "The Representative Five" where the top five types of Ramen represent the prefecture. With a sense of pride of its various ramens that have evolved through the years of its own history and innovation: Light-Shoyu Ramen (1930. Niigata Island, Niigata City), Rich Miso Ramen (Nishi-kan Niigata City), Backfat Ramen (Tsubame), Ginger Shoyu (1963. Nagaoka), Kare Ramen (Sanjo), and Mabo Ramen. Yamagata Prefectures quickly developing itself as the land of Ramen through recipes of Soba Sauce with Mackerel and distinct Yamagata-style craft Soy Sauce Producers and the care to control the taste of natural water sources. Tension would grow as Niigata lost the title (2023) of most consumed ramen in the country and the Niigata Ramen Cooperative Association (NRCA) was born as many ramen stall owners did 100 years ago.